The X-Acto knife and scale ruler I've had since, I'm guessing, 1956. I got them in Quincy at the train store. (As in CB∓Q) The owner was a biggie in Cub Scouts and took a lot of time with kids
in his store. The scale is HO and OO. The X-Acto has a four jaw chuck which is still tight a half century later. The Arkansas stone came soon after when Dad figured out what the #11 blades cost! The
dissecting needle is about the same age, from jr. high bio. Of course I've replaced the needle a few times and this is the third handle.
These are the first things out on the table when I start a project. Other tools land where they land, but these have a specific location so that I don't have to look for them. They live at about 1
o'clock relative to the work surface and just off that surface.
Jack Work wrote an article in the early 60's that had a big impact on how I do things. About work benches he said that he built all his models on a sheet of paper. The rest of the table or bench was
just a place to drop tools and stash paint bottles. My work surface is a 12" X 15" piece of 3/4" Ultra-cab (structural particle board) with a Formica surface. This sits on a 20" X 42" surface which
is covered with drafting board cover vinyl. On the Formica surface I use a piece of plain tablet backing cardboard for the actual work surface. I cut right into it if I need a soft surface, or use
the Formica if I need a hard surface. I use an 8-1/2" X 11" self healing cutting pad for decal work.
Christian
I've got a small 1.5" vice which was purchased in the 50's with birthday present money from a great aunt and is still the tool of choice instead of the other two or three small vices I've got.
I've also got a pair of ordinary pliers and a pair of snipe nose pliers which were bought from the local Woolworths with pocket money at about the same time and they are still going strong with their
joints as good as the day they were bought.
My main craft knife was my father's and it has to be about 30+ years old. And I've also got a very old fine grit stone to keep the blades sharp and save money - like your father :-)
In fact, looking round my workbench, most of my favourite tools are about 20 - 30 years old, and I very rarely have to buy anything new these days. Files are about the only items which are replaced
when they get blunt.
My work surface is a 15" x 12" offcut of blockboard left over from my first DIY job in my first house - that makes it about 36 years old. It's looking very disreputable, with the surface covered with
all manners of marks and soldering burns, but it is still flat, and good for a quick setting up surface.
The only significant new purchase recently is a Resistance Soldering Unit. This has been the "way to go" for the past year or so in the UK and certainly makes soldering a lot easier and quicker in
most cases. My seven year old grand-daughter has been using it with great success - the only problem being that my stock of small section brass and nickel silver is becoming a bit depleted :-)
Jim Guthrie
For working storage for small tools, I use the plastic cutlery holders used in kitchen drawers. I cover the bottom of all the compartments with thin foam sheet, then put all the tools in their
appropriate compartments.
Jim Guthrie
I have a cheap spice rack attached to the wall above my workbench to hold bottles of glue, smaller bottles of thinners (transferred from large cans), Dullcoat and Glosscoat, brush cleaner jars,
decal setting solutions, and masking agents. Basically, things I use a lot. They can be used to hold paints as well. But I have WAY too many paints to hold it all. I have a couple of pin nails driven
into the end of the spice rack to hold a large brush (for brushing resin dust, plastic shavings, and dog hairs [Dexter sheds way too much] off my work bench), and a small flashlight (for when small
parts fall into the dark abyss under the bench) I also have some pin nails driven into the bottom, front edge of the rack to hold scissors and other small tools with holes. There is also a magnet
strip along this edge to hold other small tools. One of which is.......
D.A.
My workbench has a center drawer, just above my legs when sitting at the bench. To minimize parts falling into the abyss, I'll put the end of a shop towel inside the drawer, close it, and lay the
rest of the towel in my lap. It makes a great basket when the ol' butterfingers are acting up. And has saved my feet from many X-Acto blades.
D.A.
I have a (very) cheap roll around tool box to hold my paints and most tools. So I can easily get it out of the way when needed. The base for my Dremel drill press is screwed to the top lid, and I
can easily add or remove the press assembly when needed. That way I can still open up the top of my box and not have to remove the base.
D.A.
Are there any suggestions to prevent static charges accumulating on a model while building the kit?
Keep wet paper towels draped over the model to prevent any further static build-up.
Are your feet on carpet? you might try putting down a piece of plastic floor mat under your feet (you would still have to displace the static charge once before you start). You could ground the model
with a jumper and also get a wrist strap from most computer stores and clip it to something that is a ground while you work.
Ben Damon
Go to someplace like Staples (or possibly an electronics store) and buy an anti-static mat. Either that or find an Audio salon where they still might sell the anti-static guns that you neeeded for
records. I must say I've never had a static problem building models. I do, however, have a foam pad I lay models on while working.
Paul Tackowiak
...i use an aluminum-top worktable to put models together in the motorhome (a major source of static electricity)...drains off static-electricity, and cleans up easily. with a damp rag, as well...you
can buy these aluminum- top folding work tables (40" x 24") at wallymart for about $25 (i paid $14 for mine at the local auction - box-damage only)...looks like a rectangular card table...pretty
sturdy for an economy table...textured-aluminum shhet over hardboard...aluuminum legs with riveted-reinforcents...you can use it camping when you're not railroading...good table for the barbecue
area, as well, 'cause it's fire-proof...:))
...big john... :))
Wear cotton. Minimzes static buildup, generally.
If you work in electronics, or have a friend, etc, lay hands on a used, largish, antistat bag. Makes a suitable field expedient antistat surface to work on. All parts, tools, fingers, etc to be in
contact with the mat. (leaning elbows on it helps a lot..)
Dave Pierson
In reference to clothing, if the hospital scrubs are of interest to anybody worried about static build-up, the good ones have 1% stainless steel thread in their construction. This is to minimize the
chance of static discharge in the operating rooms which have a higher than normal mixture of explosive gases compared to other rooms in a hospital.
They are comfortable to wear, I don't usually wear them while working on the layout or detailing but if static became a problem for me, I might consider it.
We used a conductive floor wax type of stuff in addition to the conductive mats and wrist straps. Even the carts that we used to transport the boards from one station to the next had small rubber
straps hanging from them touching the floor to discharge any build-up while rolling across the floor.
Tim
The best solution for preventing static electricity is to humidify the air in your house. Humidity should be kept above 50% minimum to control static. I prefer 60%. When outside temperature drops
humidity decreases. Depending on your climate this can be a problem in the winter. In cold northern areas with sub-zero weather low humidity is a known condition causing other problems as well.