For a stream, pound or small creek running through a layout my choice is (Matte medium) but if your looking for a flat mirror like surface this isn't the best choice. But the advantages are as
follows.
1. you brush matte medium on, it is not poured so there is no running off the table or leaking through cracks in the scenery.
2. you can color matte medium using acrylic tube paints (cobalt blue) to give the water a bluish tint, and you choose the amount of color.
3. (NO SMELL)
4. clean up with soap and water.
5. if you are modeling fast moving water just whip the matte mediun around rocks or shallows and highlight with white acrylic paint to form ripples or foamy white caps around rocks and such.
Modeling water with this method the surface material being used doesn't really matter to start spread a thin layer of joint compound out on the surface with a putty knife (if your modeling a small
pond or very calm water then go no further) but for a more choppy effect allow the joint compound to sit for a few minutes, then dab it lightly with a damp household sponge. The thicker the joint
compound the higher your waves will be so its important to keep the mixture thin. The joint compound will need a day to dry (and provided you didn't put it on to thick should not crack-if it does you
can brush out the cracks with a damp paintbrush). Next paint the joint compound black (flat or gloss doesn't matter) just be sure to use latex paint. After that is dry you need to add a transition
area to seperate the shore from the deep area of the river, using a light tan (earth tone color) and a 1/2 inch brush, dip the brush into the paint and starting at the shore line start applying the
paint to the side of the bank at the waters edge and moving towards the middle of the river, as the paint in the brush is used up you'll be able to feather the tan color out into the black.
Allow this to dry then (drybrush) your way back in with some of the black paint. And last apply a coat of gloss matte medium to the river surface (remember to stir the mixture not shake it before use
or air bubbles will show in the surface of the river).
If you want you can tint your matte mediun to what ever shade you want-clear to dark blue just add a dab of acrylic tube paint to the mix. for wide areas use an old 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch brush, dip it
in the matte medium them push the brush straight down on the water surface and twist left to right almost making a circle, dip the brush and repeat next to the spot you just did and continue till the
whole area is finished. Allow to dry for a day or two, you can get a smoother surface using matte mediun by dipping the brush into the mixture and apply just like painting a wall using smooth even
strokes, there will stil be some ripples on the surface but it will be smoother than the dip and dab method. You can layer with matte medium just keep painting over the previous layer till you get
the depth you want.
Now for a water fall-take thin strips of (clear acetate) and glue into place at the top and bottom of the falls, allow to dry. Next were gloves and apply (clear silicone caulk) with your protected
finger, making it look like water falling straight down (except where it may hit rocks, logs or other things) this will require several thin coats and allow each to dry before going to the next coat,
also keep plenty of rags handy it does get messy. After your finished adding layers by hand use an old tooth brush to add the final coat brushing lightly up and down to give texture. For white froth
to simulate air trapped in the turbulent water mix equal parts of Titanium white or Polly-S Reefer White and gloss medium and apply where turbulance would occour using up and down strokes. When this
dries to seal the white turbulance add a coat of clear gloss medium (remember if your building a water fall (build the falls first) then do the water leading up to and away from the falls.
matte medium can be purchased at any craft store and is very easy to work with
Booker1067
I am trying to model a waterfall, about 6 inches high in HO. I am using Envirotex, I tried using aquarium filter material, ripped that out, tried using clear plastic, pouring the envirotex over
that and then drybrushing some white highlights, ripping that out tonite. Anyone have some good ideas or is it just my lack of artistic abilities,
Dynamic things never look good when static. If you're critical of the appearance, then you will never be happy with the appearance of a waterfall. The true answer is to take a picture of it and see
what's wrong. Looking at the actual model makes you want to see motion in the model which you can't do.
Bob May
I have seen nice results where a friend used heavier clear plastic wrap, twisted and straightened, anchored at top and bottom, and then dribbled acrylic resin down that. I don't know if they're still
around, but an outfit called "Color-Rite" used to sell a waterfall "kit" also that you may want to look into. It consisted of a piece of plastic that had a very low melting point (soften it in hot
water, then bend and carve to desired shape)
Don Dellmann
I did it with clear fishing line. Take piece of cardboard the size of the falls. Wrap the line around and around it. pour envirotex. When hard cut 1/4" off the top and bottom. you will remove the
cardboard and have two waterfalls. Glue in place. Pour a bit more over the top. Slow it running down with a hair dryer. Worked for me, took
first place last year in Maritime convention diorama.
Hazen
You might want to try clear silicone sealer. I haven't tried it, but my wife has decided for our cascades, we're going to add some very fine glitter, and illuminate with a variable/oscillating light
of some kind. I have seen some done with the plain silicone, and is seems to have "body" the resins lack.
Rusty Keeney
In other words, about 40+ scale feet high. In real life, such a waterfall would probably be kinda misty, wouldn't it? More like a spray than the smooth flow that you'd see with a small waterfall. To
get the misty effect you could use some of that white polyester stuffing used in pillows and cushions. (It's available at fabric stores.) Stretch it out, lay it over whatever spillway you have
already coated with gloss medium (for an adhesive,) lightly press it in place, and you've got instant foamy waterfall.
Chuck Furlong
Years ago, when I was still in HO, I built two waterfalls about the size you desire using clear silicon sealant tinted very lightly with a translucent blue dye. I created them horizontally on
waxpaper and then used more sealant to attach them in place after they had set. They were quite convincing. I think the idea came from a Model Railroader article sometime in the early 70's, maybe
late 60's. I know it had to be within that time frame because I moved out of that house in 1974!
Jerry C. in Duncanville.
there was an article many years back in MR about someone using aluminum foil strips (like xmas tinsel) a small fan and a light under their water to provide some kind of moving light effect.
Tom
I've just started modelling scenery, and I'd like to make a marsh. The problem I've run into is that in the majority of the references I've seen for modeling water, it's always been perfectly still and level. The only exeption I've found is for rapids, where the water is literally boiling. Does anyone know of a good reference for creating _little_ ripples, such as what radiates from a twig, or exists in a pond under a gentle breese?
Main reason that the little ripples you seek to model are largely ignored my the modeling press is that the vast majority model in scales small enough that the ripples would be all but invisible. The "gentle breeze" rippling method(s) would depend of what you are using for your water. Using two-part epoxies, use a little more hardener than the packaging calls for, or force the "drying" process with an electric hair-dryer blowing in the direction you want the wind/breeze effect to be coming from.
Ripples around a twig? I don't have a clue.
Jack "The trolley nut" Priller
If you use the hair dryer vertically down as it is curing you should be able to create the ripple rings. You will need to do it will it is still liquid enough to create a couple of rings without flattening back out.
Khris
I've been experimenting with this myself, using Envirotex (urethane) in HO scale (1:87, pretty close to your 1:72). So far, I've created some broad ripples, but not very predictably.
Now, I'm working on a diorama for the National Train Show this summer, in N scale (1:160) and have begun experimenting with a "much smaller hair dryer" that might interest you. It's a mini heat-gun used for heating up embossing powder--sold in craft stores for about $20 or so. It's about the size of a soldering iron. It might produce a small enough stream of hot air to produce a twig ripple like you're looking for.
Gardiner
You could also "paint them on". After using what ever method you use to create the water. Paint on artists matte medium. The thick paste kind. While this looks white out of the jar it will dry clear. There have been several articles in the railroad press about this technique. The best was for creating wave along the California coast for a coastliner module. With a little practice instead of creating waves you should be able to do gentle ripples.
Jim
I've used that method for the ripples around swimmers and boats in HO scale...also have used white and clear acrylic caulking blended for larger waves...I'm not sure if thick matte medium (like Modge Podge) would work for something as small as around reeds, but it's worth a try...I'd do a test on a small sample piece first...
Rod
Guess what? I found a clue! Jim's mention on "painting them on" reminded me that I have, in my paint supplies, some 3D paint. Stuff is called "Scribbles" and is made by Duncan www.duncancrafts.com
I am trying to use it to add dimension to signs, etc. but if your hands are steady enough, it could work for your ripples.
Jack "The trolley nut" Priller
If you are referring to the original question of ripples around reeds in a marshy area that might be worth a try...if you are referring to the larger splashing around swimmers and boats that I mentioned I'll stick with my method as it has proven to be very effective for my purposes...
Rod
Perxactedly! There is no one method that works for everything. The Modge Podge is also in my repertoire and is thicker than the Scribbles making it better for waves. The Scribbles tends to flow more readily giving the effect of gentler ripples, or at least it should. Have not as yet tried it.
Jack "The trolley nut" Priller
Anybody who's ever used Envirotex urethane resin for modeling water has experienced the nasty tendency of the stuff to creep up the shoreline and leave an uneven, thoroughly unrealistic looking water's edge in the process.
Most of the tips I've heard on this subject deal with how to hide the areas of creep with boulders, foliage, or dull paint. It would be far better if we could just stop the capillary action and let the stuff level out by itself.
Has anybody had any success in this? I ask because I've recently had a little success (not total) by spraying PolyTek's mold release (essentially a slilcone oil in a spray can along the shore line prior to pouring the Envirotex. Good news is that it appears to break the capillarity and keep the Envirotex from creeping. Bad news is that the spray itself gives off a slight sheen, and once on a surface it keeps you from attaching anything else (like rocks or foliage, junk, or other shoreline debris) becasue glue won't attach to it. It's also pretty difficult to remove.
Any other suggestions on how to buld a good shoreline?
I stopped using poly and epoxies because of the creeping problem at the shoreline...for large areas such as a lake or pond I use clear ripple plastic (the type used for shower doors) and for streams and swamps I use Woodland Scenics EZ Water...regardless of which method I use I always put sand, ground foam, etc., along the shoreline...
Rod
I use EZ Water but the same seems to happen. What I did was to undercut the shore line so that the "water" would flow UNDER the edge leaving a pretty sharp edge that could be broken up with the details. For level areas like a "beach", just let it flow and bring the sand / dirt up to it after hardening. ------ Ger
Another way that a modeler I know was saying is seal the sand with matte medium thus the sand or gravel wont soak the resin up. Also pour from the middle of the lake or river and there shouldnt be much creeping. or so he says.
Martin
Has anyone ever used the 'craft' paints like Apple Barrel and Americana for >white metal, resin or other scenery? My wife has hundreds of them laying >around and since she is at work Im thinking of borrowing some hehehe.
I used some on the bottom of a small drainage ditch on the old layout. Then poured a thin layer of gloss medium over it. Worked great but it took almost a week for the gloss medium to lose the white glue look and dry completely clear. I must admit I was a bit worried about that for a couple days.
Here's one thing I've never heard or seen in print - after creating the above I realized I had forgotten to add a lighter, earth tone color along the banks. After the gloss medium was try I took an earthy Floquil color I had and carefully dry brushed it along the water surface along the banks. This allowed me to "creep up" on the amount which was being applied until it look right. I think it turned out OK and I tend to be a perfectionist (Don't always achieve it but still keep trying!) This may get tedious for a large body of water and so I should mention that this drainage ditch came out of one of the Woodland Scenics culverts and ran under the track to the front edge of the layout, a distance of only a few inches.
The water completes the illusion that the dam is "real." I use a simple technique (I like to think it takes a lot of skill, but it is really very basic) involving acrylic paints and gloss medium over tempered masonite board. That's it.
1. Paint the deep water area first (TIP: use a deep shade of green, as water is NOT blue). Work OUT from the middle, as you will want the outside edges of the deep water to remain 'wet' so that you can better blend into the 'wet' edge of the shallows in the next step.
2. Paint the shallows with a shade of brown that is SIMILAR to the earth color in adjacent scenery. Start at the outside edge of the water body, and work your way IN toward the deep water. This is where you use your brush to gently blend the two wet edges.
3, 4, and 5. After the paint is TOTALLY dry, apply at least two, maybe three, coats of Artists' gloss medium. I use something called Modge Podge 'Gloss' available for $5 in the craft department of Wal-Mart. The brush strokes remain visible, and your personal technique can dictate how your "wave" patterns show.
You can really create some neat illusions by varying the way you blend the shallow-to-deep areas. You can created interesting drop-offs as well as submerged rock outcroppings and channels.
Also, it is important that the base be very smooth. Tempered masonite meets this criteria, and it takes paint well.
Hope I was helpful, if not long winded.
If you are using Delta Ceramcoat acrylic paints (87 cents for 2 oz. at WalMart, up to $1.19 at craft stores), they make an extender and a 'gel blending medium' that extend drying time for "easier blending". Have not tried them with other brands of paint, but probably would work with them as well.
Jack "The trolley nut" Priller