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Control Panel

I am trying to engineer my layout's control panel for easy removal and reconnection. The panel itself houses the block and switch controls, any light or accessory controls and also the two power packs. What I need to know is if anyone else has done something similar and if so, what did they use as the electrical connectors?
There will be at least 30 separate connections to start with...not too many, but enough that I'd want to find some big connectors. I was thinking of using some automotive style wiring harnesses or computer cable. If I use computer cable connectors, is the wire big enough for thecurrent?

Try taking a trip down to your local auto scrap/junk yard and poke around under the hoods. You'll find a multitude of various sized/colored multi-connectors, most use 14/12/10 gauge wire which will be fine for most any layout...I did exactly that...took them from cars waiting to be crushed and cost me *nothing*!!
Can't beat the price!! :-)
Mike Simpson

I'm not sure why you would want to disconnect your panel so often that you need quick disconnects which can get pretty expensive. One of the electronics surplus stores would be the place to get them or as someone noted, many are available on junked cars. Easier to terminate the wires at a paired screw terminal block, as many as needed and just undo the screws to move the panel.
Alan Arthur

Yes, the computer wires should be able to handle the current. If you aren't sure, you can buy the "sub D" connectors and wire them with telephone wire. A bit more involved, buy you can do it. They make either solder or crimp on connectors. If you go with the crimp ons. I would solder it anyway. I used multiple 9 pin sub d connectors on my old railroad modules.
Frank Rosenbaum

If you want reliability NEVER use telephone wire! Always use stranded wire and put rubber sleeves over all the joints to give added mechanical protection.
Dick Ganderton

If solid conductor telephone wire is used, you must take precautions during installation not to kink it. If you get a kink, unwind it, don't just pull it straight. Before installation, plan your wire runs and terminations for locations that won't have a lot of mechanical motion, which will weaken and break the wire. The telephones in your home or apartment use the same wire we're talking about, and with proper installation, are still working, in many cases, over fifty years later. Our layouts should last so long... :>))
<><><> TOM <><><>

I have used multi-colored ribbon cable.
It is:

The 2 options for connectors:

Dan Prysby

What I'm using are d-subminiature connectors of the 50 pin variety. These are a larger version of the 9 and 25 pin connectors used on computers. A regular solder-type d-sub connector will take a maximum of 20 gauge wire, which is okay for short runs of no longer than 50 feet, carrying 5 amps load. Not knowing what scale you're using makes things a little difficult. HO and N will be okay, for S and O, you'd need to use something like a Jones connector. I think they may have been called Cinch-Jones connectors (a one time manufacturer of them).Ask around at an old time electronic shop about these connectors (not at a Radio Shack). These connectors come in various pin capacities, and you can generally use up to 12 gauge wire, which should see you through most anything on a home layout.
Whatever connector you use, put heat-shrink sleeving over each connector pin after you solder it. This will keep things from shorting together in the connector. Do NOT use premade computer cables. At most they have 24 gauge wire, which is basically useless for carrying any current above a couple of milliamps.
Jack

Molex connectors are available from Radio Shack in several pin configurations. You do need a crimping tool, but the system works well. You can alter pin configurations, i.e. male to female or female to male to make the plugs 'goof proof'
Don Cardiff

I have just finished painting the face of my control panel. Masking tape worked great, and the white "tracks" of the layout are highly visible against a brown background. I have purchased some dry transfer lettering for the numbers, but I'd like to not buy a separate set of dry transfers to distinguish between power blocks and switches. Does anyone have another technique that looks good and isnt' to expensive?

This may be so obvious, but does the set of dry transfers you have contain more than one color? 'twould seem a two-color scheme would solve your problem.
Jack

Have you tried painting the area to be lettered the color you want to show through, then placing dry rub-on-transfer letters on the area, then repainting with a cover color allow to dry, then pull up the dry transfer letters with masking tape leaving your letters showing in the color you want, just an idea, I'd try a test piece to see if it works out the way I think it should, never done it on a control panel but works great for 2 tone signs for scale buildings
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...to add to a GREAT suggestion, use "drafting" tape instead of regular masking tape...not as "sticky", and it won't "grab" the paint, just the dry transfer letters... :)) ...by the way, this technique was demonstrated in a 70's RMC magazine, back when dry transfer lettering was just getting started, and there they applied the technique to boxcars, etc, as well as buildings
...big johann...

Vvisit a craft (not hobby) store to see if they have a broader selection of dry transfer numbers/letter. You might also try a stationery store, or a store that carries drafting supplies. Electronics stores (e.g. Radio Shack) also sell them - for (guess what) control panel labelling.
Jim

I have several ideas for you. First, you have a computer. Go and get a sheet of blank decal paper and print your lettering on the decal paper (ALPS printers are best, I use an HP 682 DeskJet and it works pretty well). Overspray the decal paper with clear, then cut out the decals, apply, and finally clear the entire panel. You can put on logos, etc. very easily and professionally!

Second: go to your local blueprint supply for additional dry transfer letters. They usually have a really large supply of different fonts, sizes, etc. After applying, again, clear the panel to seal in the lettering and provide an easy to clean surface.

Third: more expensive, but try getting engraved labels from your local trophy/engraving shop. You can simply glue on, and they look really nice and professional.

Fourth: try the lettering from a Brother P-Touch label maker. These are pretty nice machines, the labels are nice, and price is not too bad.

Finally, you might try what I installed on my first large layout - with actually pretty good success! Go to your local paint supply and get a quart of blackboard paint. Paint your panels (spraying best, but brushing works out pretty good, too). Use chalk on the panels, and simply erase when you are tired of the lettering. Or, if you want some permanent lettering, after chalking in your information, overspray that area with clear, then use the blackboard part for notes, etc. This was copied from the Santa Fe interlocking board at the East Tower here in Amarillo, Texas. As equipment failed, etc, the tower operator was to chalk in instructions/reminders, etc. It actually was pretty neat!
Tom Jones III

I have built a number of control panels useing decals I made on my ALPS printer. It works great, but if you use Micro Marks decal paper you do not need to overspray them before you cut them out. I apply them to Mansonite painted with gloss black spray paint and use "Draw a Line" 1/8 tape to the track scheme( But you could do them as decals also) after the board is drilled, schemed and decals applied I give it a number of heavy coats of Testors Dullcoat. The look great and last on top of that.